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PORTUGAL
WINTER 2019
São Miguel, Azores
Tourists have discovered
Portugal. We were lucky to get acquainted before the
hordes arrived, not only to the mainland but here in the
Azores. We toured the mainland from 1997 to 2011. Our
first visit to the Azores was in 2003 to São Miguel,
Terceira, Faial, and Pico. In 2006 we came back to São
Miguel and since 2012 we have wintered in Ponta Delgada
(read all about it in our past travelogues). Ponta
Delgada is in the midst of a renaissance. The old
residential and commercial buildings that were badly in
need of repair and renovation are being converted into
smart accommodations, restaurants and shops. The façades
retain the historic look and the interior construction is
mandated to withstand the elements. Visitors now have
more and better choices to sleep and eat well.
This was THE winter to be
out of Toronto. This is our 9th winter doing just that,
bedding down in Ponta
Delgada, São Miguel, Azores, Portugal.
We are fortunate that
there are non-stop flights from Toronto to Ponta Delgada
via Azores Airlines, a division of Sata. The rebranding
to Azores
Airlines is part
of a commitment to the constant effort to improve the
flying experience. The flight schedule is convenient year
round. The service on the ground and in flight, in all
classes, gets better every time. Whichever class you
choose will be very good value. This was particularly
true this flight which was our first on the new A321 with
3x3 seating in economy and 2x2 in executive.
From Toronto, the flying
time to PDL is only 5.5 hours. The time difference is
only 4 hours. It's a breeze.
Azores Airlines is located
at the far end of Terminal 3 at Pearson Airport. The
check-in desk opens 4 hours before flight time. With the
comfortable gate-side waiting area or Executive Class
lounge, it's comfortable if you choose to arrive early,
as we always do.
There are onward flights
to mainland Portugal, Cape Verde, the Canaries, Madeira
and the other islands of the Archipelago.
We know that many people
have no knowledge of the Azores, so here are a few facts
to get you started on your journey. The Azores is an
autonomous region of Portugal. Nine islands comprise the
archipelago. São Miguel is the largest and along with
Santa Maria (the first discovered in 1427 by Portuguese
explorers) form the eastern group. Terceira, Graciosa,
São Jorge, Faial and Pico are the central group and the
western group is made up of Flores and Corvo. The
archipelago is located in the Atlantic Ocean, 1408 km
from Lisbon and 3910 km from New York. It's no wonder the
fish is fresh out of the water onto your plate. The mild
maritime climate is influenced by the Gulf Stream.
Daytime temperatures average 23 C in the summer and 15 C
in the winter. The weather is ideal to visit comfortably
any time of year. The population of the archipelago is
about 246,000, 138,000 of which live on São Miguel.
138,000 cows (one for each person) graze freely making
the dairy and meat as wholesome as possible. Wholesome,
the perfect way to describe life on the islands.
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Nature is
revered in São Miguel (and the other 8 islands that
comprise the Azorean archipelago). In this paradise,
spectacular lush greenery and exquisite plantings are
pampered. Volcanic mountains topped by luscious lakes,
thermal waters and waterfalls, lovely beaches, natural
coastal pools and surging white-capped surf is visually
exquisite and spectacular venues for outdoor activities
(hiking, walking, biking, diving, surfing, canyoning,
kayaking, fishing, golfing, thermal bathing and bird
watching).
Our previous travelogues
contain in-depth, detailed and informative reporting of
all the exquisite beauty of São Miguel. Join us as we
travel along the coastline exploring the towns, villages
and eye popping viewpoints. Take a journey to glistening
lakes on high and bathe in thermal pools. Breath in the
aroma of the fresh air filled with the fragrances of the
lush flowering greenery. Make a friend with one of the
138,000 cows roaming the luscious land. It's all there to
tempt you to visit soon.
We have been very pleased
with our lovely
apartment in Ponta
Delgada at Rua Machado dos Santos, 90. The location right
in the city center is very convenient with all our basic
needs in walking distance.
The building has three
floors with an elevator. There are not many buildings of
this size with this convenience. All the necessities are
in place: heating/ac unit, washer/dryer combo, electric
stove, internet and cable T.V., strong wifi, and a
fully-equipped kitchen. The generous size queen bedroom
has adequate closet space and the living room easily
handles our lounging and computer needs. There is a good
size bathroom complete with storage cabinets, tub/shower
combo and bidet. Cleaning is done once a week.
Eleutério and his wife,
Maria, take pride in satisfying their guests. No request
goes unanswered. They reflect the good and kind spirit of
the Azorean people.
Eleutério also does custom-designed
tours. Besides
being an avid diver and hiker, he loves and knows every
inch of the island. He has shown us those
off-the-beaten-track delights that we all crave as well
as the best of the best sights and sounds.
Eleutério
picks his guests up when they arrive and returns them
when leaving. It did not take us long to unpack, freshen
up and be on our way to begin to do food shopping. All of
our basic needs are within walking distance. The Manteiga
supermarket just up the street, The Solmar Market next to
the Solmar Avenida Center, across from the marina, and
the large Continente Super Center in the Parque Atlantico
Shopping Center, a 15-minute walk from our apartment.
Mercado da Graça on Rua do Mercado is the place for
fresh produce, fish and meat. The adjacent O Rei Dos
Queijos (King of Cheese) is a must for a hand-cut wedge
of luscious São Miguel or São Jorge cheeses, our
favorites. They also feature many island products at
reasonable prices. We normally do our cheese, jam, tuna,
biscuits, bananas, etc., shopping at O Príncipe
dos Queijos, Rua
dos Mercadores, 50, owned by the same family. Local tuna
is known to be the healthiest variety there is. Take some
cans home along with delicious jams made from local
fruits.
[Back to Top]
While we were in the area
we stopped into the Solmar Avenida Center to say hello to
our friends at Wash Now, a
clean, modern, well-equipped laundry. These accommodating folks will
wash, dry, fold and neatly package your laundry in two to
three hours. There are a host of cafes and restaurants in
the center along with free wifi (we discovered that free
wifi is now available throughout most of the city center)
to help pass the time.
We
arrived at the beginning of January and had to suffer the
seemingly endless wait until February 9 for our first
authentic gelato fix. Gelateria
Abracadabra,
gelato at its best, located at the corner of Rua Diario
Dos Acores and Rua Marques Praia E Monforte, just past
the Hotel Talisman. The opening was eagerly anticipated
by all. Winter hours are 12:30 to 21:30, 7 days a week.
Check the web page for current opening hours during your
visit.
The cheerful staff stand
ready to fill your cup or cone with your flavor choices.
Flavors are rotated regularly while new ones are
constantly introduced. You must come everyday to try them
all, as do we, and if you prefer a waffle topped or a
pancake filled, with your flavor of choice, these treats
also await you. Will it be hazelnut, pistachio,
chocolate, dark chocolate, vanilla, biscotti,
stracciatella, coconut, choco peanut or fruits of the
island like pineapple, mango, passion fruit..? Always a
different assortment from which to choose.
The shop is bright and
cheerful with seating inside and out. The staff are
constantly cleaning to maintain a sparkling, inviting and
healthy environment. There is lots to explore in the
neighborhood, a cup or cone is a pleasureable companion.
Daily life for an Azorean
always involves at least one stop for coffee and a sweet.
There are a multitude of cafes and pastelarias to cater
to this need. After much trial and error we have found
that Paraíso das
Delícias on Rua
Diario Dos Acores, just down the street from Abracadabra,
is our go-to spot for a daily pastry. Owner Claudia, who
produces wonderful versions of traditional goodies, is
always experimenting with new delights. It's difficult to
select from the displays of heavenly almond cake, broa,
chock full of nuts and raisins, the classic pao de deus,
cream and fruit filled delights, muffins, and the beat
goes on. All to be enjoyed with Illy brand coffee.
[Back to Top]
Abracadabra and Paraíso
das Delícias, two winners on Rua Diario Dos Acores. We
hope to see you around the neighborhood when you come for
these island delights.
When need be, mini-bus
connections are
minutes away. It's fun to watch the skilled bus drivers
manuever through the narrow streets. They are friendly
and kind to their passengers helping make the ride as
comfortable as possible for all. It's heart warming to
see the younger passengers treating the ederly with care,
offering their seats without hesitation.
We love the cleanliness of
São Miguel. Here in Ponta Delgada the streets are always
immaculate. Those cleaning guys are constantly sweeping
and vacuuming. There are waste bins attached to buildings
all around the city center. Restaurants, cafes, bars and
visitor accommodations maintain the highest standards.The
attractive stone streets and sidewalks are constantly
being repaired by skilled stone craftsmen.
Invariably our daily
jaunts take us past the Igreja Matriz de São Sebastião
and the city gates. it is rare that Linda doesn't stop to
capture the image from yet another angle. Our walking
route covers the stretch from the fort (Forte de São
Bras) in the west to the Clube Naval (Nautical Club) in
the east. The fishing port is next to the fort. Steps
down from Avenida Marginal, facing the port is a
promontory that has been transformed into a cozy eating
and drinking area, Cais Da Sardinha. Shipping containers
have been transformed into a cafe and restaurant.
Comfortable tables, chairs, lounges and a picturesque
view make it a compelling destination.
Glass
enclosed cafe kiosks with outside seating run along the
seaside offering beverages, snacks, marina views and
fresh, sweet air. Next along is the cruise ship and ferry
terminal, which when occupied keeps the waterfront
bustling. Portas do Mar with its shops and restaurants
fronts the terminal. The adjacent sea and swimming pool
area leads to the Club Naval Marina. Try to make it for
sunrise or sunset for the real deal. Capture those views
from the footbridge that links the seaside to the Hotel
Marina Atlantico.
Ponta Delgada has a long
history to absorb and appreciate as you wander the
streets. Here are some monuments that should not be
missed:
Museu Carlos
Machado, the main
one, was created by Dr. Carlos Machado in 1876 and opened
June 10, 1888. With the acquisition of the Saint Andrew
convent in 1930 came the opportunity to gather in the
same building all the collections of the Carlos Machado
Museum. Over the years donations and acquisitions
contributed to the depth and diversity of its
collections; natural history, art, African and regional
ethnography.There is a natural history collection of
preserved samples of every fish, animal, bird, insect,
butterfly, etc. that has ever inhabited the Azores, as
well as pictures, graphs, charts and detailed
explanations. It's a scientific reflection of nature's
impact and influence on the Azores during the 19th
century.
The Sacred Art collection
was moved to the nearby Jesuit
College Church.
The church now operates under the umbrella of the Museo
Carlos Machado where it is now a permanent exhibit.
Jesuits College Church came to Ponta Delgada in 1591.
It's a glorious baroque creation, with ornamental
volcanic stone elements on its facade. The high altar is
a dazzling work of intricate wood carving and 18th
century blue/white glazed tiles (azulejos). There are
several paintings and sculptures from the 17th and 18th
centuries in the nave and sacristy.
In 2010, the Museum opened
a third center, Santa
Bárbara, just
south of the main building, Saint Andrew convent. This
marvelous property houses a permanent exhibition of the
extraordinary sculpture of Azorean Canto Da Maya. You
will know you are there when you see the solitary figures
of Adam and Eve in the courtyard. There are always
temporary exhibits which fulfill the Museum's Mission:
"To study and preserve heritage and through it
unveil and promote Azorean culture and Azorean
identities, focusing on educational activities aimed at
several publics. It is a place of inclusion, where
identities are expressed and diversity is promoted, where
ideas are put forward and generations meet, where
citizenship is developed and past and present are united."
[Back to Top]
The Sahar
Hassamain (Gates of Heaven) Synagogue was founded in 1836, (the oldest
in Portugal), on Rua do Brum, with a facade like any
other building in the historic center. A marvelous
restoration was completed and opened to the public April
23, 2015. The exterior was preserved as it was. The
Sancturary reclaimed its breathtaking aura. A bright and
airy Museum and Cultural Center were created to document
the Jewish Heritage of the Azores. (Better yet, make your
visit here part of a larger Jewish heritage tour of
Portugal. We have written about most of these synagogues:
in Porto, the Kadoorie synagogue; in Lisbon, the kehilat
Beit Israel and Shaare Tikvah synagogues; in Belmonte,
the Bet Eliahu synagogue, and the synagogue of Tomar.)
Torre Sineira was built in 1724 behind the city
hall to replace the main church tower that was in bad
repair. It's 29.6m high with 108 stairs. The panoramic
views from the top are worth the 108 stair climb.
There is much more to
explore. Relax, take your time, the Azorean way.
We often stop to help
folks looking befuddled with map in hand. Invariably the
conversation turns to where to eat. We tell them that
frankly you can't go wrong. All food establishments at
all price levels offer excellent value. The menus feature
local regional fare. Some of the new establishments are
updating their offerings. Most of the ingredients are
local and of excellent quality. The livestock are fed
local grains and grass, which is reflected in the natural
flavor and texture of the meat, pork, fowl and dairy.
Fish is caught daily (as weather permits) - ocean to
plate.
There are many places to
enjoy a traditional meal in the city center at reasonable
prices. We do have a few favorites that we go to
regularly:
Floresta
Lisbonense is
located on Rua Dos Combatentes da Gandeguerra, an alley
behind the Maritime Police Building on Avenida Marginal.
The menu of the day with 6-7 offerings is posted to the
left of the open window. Family owned and operated, the
portions are large, the prices small. It isn't fancy.
It's a fun, thrifty, absolutely local experience.
[Back to Top]
Casa do Pasto Tavares, at
the corner of Rua Melo and Rua Bettencourt, is a family
institution. This is a typical neighborhood tasca
complete with blue tile walls (azulejos). The daily menu
includes the freshest fish of the day, and traditional
meat, pork and chicken dishes. Your plate will be full,
while the prices are moderate. Join the regulars at
lunchtime and enjoy the hustle and bustle.
Aliança, Rua Acoreano Oriental, 19/23, has
a homey ambiance and service that makes it a totally
relaxing experience. The regular menu has well-chosen
offerings. The daily list is primarily made up of the
fresh fish selections and traditional regional
specialties. We come here regularly for the fresh fish
and the excellent quality regional steak. Both are
expertly grilled and seasoned. Have either the orange or
coconut pudding cake for dessert, unless you can handle
the ten-minute walk to Abracadabra for gelato. Just
sayin'!
A Comercial
Cervejaria da Cidade at Rua Machado Dos Santos 75 is centrally
located with a welcoming ambiance. Come early morning for
breakfast, return for lunch and come back for dinner.
It's also the kind of place that you will want to stop in
for a coffee, beer, glass of wine or cocktail and be able
to catch a football game. A neat spot for good food and
friendship. All pure regional specialties extremely well
done.
Restaurante
Ramires, which
features chicken made famous in the town of Guia in the
Algarve, is now in Ponta Delgada at Portas do Mar. They
use organically-grown, small chickens which are cut in
rib-like slices, grilled with a secret piri-piri sauce
and served with a large portion of superb fries. The
tomato salad and creamed spinach are excellent sides
(extras).
[Back to Top]
Cozinha
dArlete, is
located in a residential section, northeast of the
center, at Rua Professor Machado Macedo, 12. It's only a
30 to 40 minute walk or 15 minutes on the "C"
minibus from downtown. If you want to eat in, don't wait
in the long take-out line, just pass into the bright and
cheerful dining area. The owner presides over the display
of the daily offerings insuring every plate is properly
filled and presented. Everything is market/garden-fresh
quality and cooked with loving care. Find your way to
Cozinha d'Arlete for a memorable Azorean meal.
For those of us who enjoy
a glass of wine with our meal it should be noted that
Portuguese wines are excellent (particularly the reds)
and extremely reasonably priced at any chosen level of
quality - terrific value.
We were introduced to a
fabulous fish restaurant, Borda D' Agua, by our friends Luca and Stefano.
It's located in Lagoa, at Largo do Porto, 52, right at
the fishing docks, no wonder the display case featured
much variety. The brightly lit dining room feels like a
homey kitchen. Tables were beautifully set with a
tantalizing array of starters including: fresh cheese
from São Miguel and the famous cheese of São Jorge, a
basket of corn breads, several pates, pickled red onions
and peppers, and more. The aroma of grilled fish led us
to the fish display where we selected four different
varities to share. Back to the table to leisurely enjoy
the appetizers with delicious wine. The fishes arrived
perfectly grilled surrounded by white and sweet potatoes
and fresh vegetables. We finished with a honey liqueur
and agreed Borda D' Agua was a fabulous find, a
delightful experience at a very reasonable cost.
Another day, they
introduced us to Cantinho do
Cais, located on
the north coast, east of Ribiera Grande, in the town of
São Bras. The specialty here is homemade fish soup. We
ordered 3 portions for the four of us which was the
perfect amount. We enjoyed fresh cheese, bread and a very
nice white wine while awaiting the made to order soup.
Our lovely waitress appeared with a large pot filled with
fish, which she fillets, potatoes, onions, herbs with a
rich, fresh aroma of goodness. She filled our bowls and
at the perfect time reappeared to divvy up what remained
in the pot. Luca and Stefano scored high marks again.
A wonderful new addition
to Portas do Mar is Momentos. In the bright open kitchen João
creates wonderful renditions of traditional specialties
while twin brother Hernani deftly handles the airy,
comfortable dining room and patio. We started with a
rich, well textured, shrimp soup and shared an order of
arroz cherne (our favorite fish) and camarão. The
brothers assured us that the desserts where all house
made so we opted for a sampling platter, which included a
variety of ice creams, coconut pudding, red velvet cake,
chocolate mousse and berry mousse - awesome all. Momentos
is a welcome addition to Portas do Mar. Superb quality,
preparation, presentation and service at reasonable
prices make a visit a must!
[Back to Top]
Machado
dos Santos is strategically located to host many cultural
events. About 10:00am Friday, Mar. 1 we heard the happy
beat of drums and knew it was Carnaval Corso time here in
the city center. For two decades São Miguel has
celebrated the youth of the island as part of the
Carnaval festivities. We looked down at the packed
sidewalks of the narrow street as the parade passed
through. Each group of children represents a school,
institution or sponsor. The colorful costumes reflect the
creativity and hard work of the community. The scene
below, deep in tradition and filled with joyful music,
gave us a sense of well-being that is not easy to come by
in our troubled world. That's why we come here.
The Romeiros' Pilgrimage
of São Miguel takes place during Lent for six weeks.
Groups of men of all ages take to the streets and roads
of the island to honor their commitment to their faith.
They walk with a scarf around their necks, a cape, a
backpack, a rosary and staff in hand. Their chants can be
heard from dawn until dusk over hills, in valleys, along
village roads and on city streets.
We like to have our hair
cut just before leaving for home and are fortunate to
have Salão Vip next door, at Rua Machado dos
Santos, 96. The owner, Sandra Rodrigues, is as bright and
cheerful as her 1st floor shop. She's talented,
meticulous and friendly, the Azorean way.
It's also a great idea to
leave with a sweet taste of the island. So, just before
Eleutério was due to take us to the airport, we scooted
over to Abracadabra to fullfill that need. One cup of
pistachio and hazelnut and one of dark chocolate and
passion fruit, way to go! Hopefully we'll see you at
Abracadabra next year.
[Back to Top]
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