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St.
John
The border crossing at Calais to St.
Stephen, New Brunswick, was quick and uneventful. We hadn't
realized there is a one hour time change at this point,
so we had to forego a planned visit to St. Andrews by-the-Sea
in order to get to St. John in time to meet our Swiss
friends, Cornelia and Fabio, who had been touring the
Maritimes. We continued on Route 1, directly into St.
John to the Homeport Historic B&B at 80 Douglas Avenue, 506-672-7255, 1-888-678-7678,
which sits on a hill with views of the Bay of Fundy and
the historic port and skyline of St. John, Canada's
oldest incorporated city.
The innkeepers, Ralph and Karen,
were on hand to greet us and advise that our friends had
already arrived. We dropped our bags in our room and
together with Cornelia and Fabio took a tour of the
Homeport. Douglas Avenue is a heritage street with many
grand old homes. Ralph and Karen bought two of these
mansions, built by two brothers in 1856, and they have
restored and joined them to create a distinctive and
comfortable environment. Ten rooms and suites are
available in four distinct price ranges to match any
budget. The heritage style has been preserved from the
antique furnishings to the claw foot tubs. Lots of local
information, menus and so forth are available in the
elegant parlor, where afternoon tea and refreshments are
served. In the space created when the two houses were
joined together is a stunning dining room and sitting
area, with a windowed wall overlooking the harbor, which
is used for special occasions. The breakfast room is
bright and cheerful and Ralph features a different hot
main course every day.
Our Adriana Room, with a partial
view of the city and harbor, was quite large with a queen
size bed and had an ensuite bathroom, as did all the
guest rooms. Air conditioning is available in season.
Ralph and Karen are hard-working,
caring innkeepers and did their utmost to make our stay
as enjoyable as possible. They recommended Bill's Seafood
Company, 49-51 Charlotte Street, in downtown St. John,
506-672-3474, a small bistro style restaurant, which was
quite good. Both the fish and clam chowders were up-to-snuff.
The crab cakes just okay but the steamed P.E.I. mussels
were superb. Cornelia and Fabio loved the house specialty
of salmon marinated in maple syrup and herbs and baked on
a wooden plank. The large cut of fresh (delivered while
we were there) halibut, was nicely broiled and served
with tomato coulis, wonderful sautéed vegetable s and
basmati rice. The lemon cream cake we shared was
delicious.
Fundy
National Park
It was a gorgeous day as we left
for Fundy National Park and Hopewell Rocks. We don't take
good weather for granted! Nine times out of ten, when we
meet our dear friends Cornelia and Fabio, it rains! So
this was an unexpected treat. As we drove through the 80
sq. mile park, we became aware of the extensive trail
system, camping facilities and even a golf course and
heated saltwater pool. All this, plus rugged beauty to
spare.
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We made several stops in the park
to walk and enjoy the wonders of nature, and as in Acadia
National Park, we were thankful there are still natural,
clean spaces that man has not fouled-up.
The Point Wolfe area was once a vibrant
logging village. At this point the river flows under an
ancient covered bridge into the Bay of Fundy. There's a
breathtaking view at the mouth of the river and it is
easy to imagine the logs floating down to the waiting
ships. The Devil's Half Acre was a picturesque 1 KM walk
looping through the woods along and above the sea. Wolfe
Lake is a sparkling oasis of calm, clean water surrounded
by forested parkland.
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We managed to work up an appetite
and looked into the unpretentious Ramona's Bakery and
Restaurant, just off Route 114 at 6 Mill Street in Albert.
The bakery was busy but since it was the end of the lunch
hour, the five tables in the lunch room were awaiting our
choice. The personable waitress welcomed us
enthusiastically and assured us that although late,
everything on the menu was available. The menu was just
right, mainly sandwiches priced from $2.99 to $3.39. Each
was quite substantial and made with thick slices of
homemade bread. The turkey and roast beef were fresh and
tasty and Linda was delighted that the bacon in her BLT
was nicely crisp and good quality. My side order of
memorable baked beans was made on the premises in the
baker's oven. Ramona also knows how to make pie -
strawberry rhubarb and lemon meringue heaven, a lunch
time winner!
Hopewell
Rocks
The Bay of Fundy boasts the world's
highest tides and the famous Flower Pot Rocks at Hopewell.
The gravitational forces of the moon and the sun combine
with the unusual shape of the bay to produce tides which
range in height from 10 meters to fourteen meters (32'-46').
To best appreciate the magnitude of these tides, they
should be viewed at both high and low tide. We planned to
be there for the low tide, so that we could walk on the
ocean floor, and we did our best to imagine the high tide.
The tour starts at the interpretive
center, which hosts a multimedia exhibit featuring the
marine wonders of the Bay of Fundy, a self-service
restaurant, gift shop and spotless washrooms. A beautiful
trail network connects a series of viewing decks located
throughout the site. Each deck location provides a unique
vista of the bay. Display panels reveal much of the area's
local and natural history. A personal touch is provided
by a host of friendly and knowledgeable interpreters.
The walk along the trail is invigorating and
when you get to the Flower Pot Rocks Deck and descend the
seemingly endless staircase to the ocean floor and stand
beside and walk among the "Flower Pots", you
are blown away. Just think, six hours from now you could
be kayaking in very deep water above this same spot.
After walking along the ocean floor
for an hour or so, you may not feel like climbing up the
stairs to the Flower Pot Rocks Deck so consider using the
much easier shorebirds access, just a bit north of the
Flower Pot access. Thoughtfully provided at the top is an
area designed to facilitate the washing of muddy footwear
with running water and brushes available for use.
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After breakfast, we drove downtown
to visit the Old City Market, since 1876 a meeting place
and farmers' market, a National and Provincial historic
site. Lots of food and wares to gawk over until it was
time to say good-bye to our friends who were headed for
the ferry to Nova Scotia.
Grand
Falls
We drove north on Route 7, which
took us past Fredericton onto Route 2, along the mighty
St. John River, on our way to Grand Falls, New Brunswick.
The forested landscape, mountains and lakes and the
rushing river captured our imagination. When we arrived
in Grand Falls, we immediately went to the famous Grand
Falls Gorge to see and hear the St. John River as it
plummets down a mile-long rock-sided ravine to the gorge
below. The Malabeam Information Center has a wealth of
material and helpful staff. There's a network of hiking
trails and a walk down 250 steps to the wells in the
rocks, one of nature's wonders. (Unfortunately the steps
would not be opening until the day after we left.) Also
available is a pontoon boat ride through the gorge, which
rises higher than 70 meters (229').
On our way to our B&B, we
admired the wide Broadway Boulevard. Originally developed
by the military in 1840, it is now home to some unique
and quaint stores selling handmade crafts from colorful
quilts to bulky sweaters.
At 575 Broadway Boulevard West is Cote's
B&B Inn, 506-473-1415,
1-877-444-2683. Norma and Noel Cote are New Brunswick at
its best - no-nonsense, unpretentious, warm and welcoming.
The delightful children and grandchildren all help out
and the family made us feel right at home.
Our Plum Room was beautifully
decorated with a queen bed, sitting area, fireplace,
complete ensuite bathroom, individual air conditioning
and ceiling fans. TV and a VCR rounded-out the amenities.
There is a meeting room, laundry service and packages are
available for meetings, special occasions and romantic
candlelight dinners for two.
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For a casual dinner, Norma
recommended The
Little Pizza House, 240
Broadway Boulevard, 506-473-3876, the wooden booths,
brick walls and beams were a perfect environment for
enjoying a fine Caesar salad and basic cheese and tomato
pizza with whole wheat crust.
We enjoyed a great night's sleep
and a very special breakfast in the lovely dining room.
On the way through the kitchen, we had a nice chat with
Noel, Norma and their daughter and decided together on
our main course choice, French toast. Now, unlike Linda,
I am not a French toast fan but Norma told me (ordered me)
to try hers. After orange juice and fresh fruit and
yogurt, Norma and her daughter brought us the plates of
golden brown heaven. Thick slices of French bread were
dipped in fresh New Brunswick eggs and cooked to fluffy
perfection. A side of lean, crisp bacon, truly
outstanding New Brunswick maple syrup and Norma's
homemade rhubarb jam completed the early morning ecstasy.
Norma told us that she and Noel
would be going to wash the windows of one of the
municipal buildings in town - "their" building,
as she put it! It seems that willing citizens are
assigned buildings to care for. The people make the town
and these nice folks make Grand Falls a neat place to
visit.
A glorious day for the continuation
of our drive along the St. John River and this
magnificent part of New Brunswick to the Quebec border,
where Route 2 continued to Route 20, which we took west
toward Quebec City. Since we were just overnighting and
wanted an early start near the highway, we made
reservations in Ste. Foy, just outside of Q.C.
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