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AUSTRIA
FALL 2005
Vienna
The old city center of Vienna, is
encircled by the handsome Ringstrasse. Emperor Franz
Joseph I had the city walls demolished in 1857 and in
their place built this boulevard lined with the exquisite
buildings that help make Vienna the gorgeous city it is.
We stayed just south of the Ring
for two nights and in the center for one night. Our train
from Graz arrived at the Sudbahnhof mid-afternoon from
which we took the "D" tram to Karlsplatz, the
intersection of Kartnerstrasse and Kartner Ring. We
disembarked and were greeted by the grand Vienna State
Opera, a reminder that the most famous composers in the
world have lived and worked here. Not only Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, whose yearlong 250th birthday celebration starts here on January 27, 2006
but Johann Strauss, Franz Schubert, Ludwig Van Beethoven
and Joseph Haydn.
We walked south on Kartnerstrasse (north
would have taken us along the wide shopping boulevard of
Kartnerstrasse directly to St. Stephansplatz, the center
of the old city), which becomes Wiedner Hauptstrasse, to
Frankenbergasse 10 and the Hotel Kaiserhof.
Since 1896 eight generations of the same family have
operated this splendid old house. Over time it has
maintained its grandeur while adding contemporary design
elements. Enter the dazzling yellow and white lobby
capped by a sculpted, high ceiling to a warm welcome. A
cozy seating area leads to a very inviting, contemporary
library lounge with bar.
The yellow and white theme of the
public areas carried through to our spacious king room
with fine quality, well chosen furniture, furnishings and
bedding. On the counter top of the lovely tiled bathroom
was a basket filled with excellent hair and body care
products and a few extras goodies. It would be a very
comfortable two nights as were the mornings in the lovely
breakfast room with a very good buffet and service.
The Kaiserhof is located in the 4th
district in Freihausviertel.
Once a poor neighborhood where the city provided free
housing (Freihaus) it has evolved into a desirable place
to live and work because it is close to the city center
and is still affordable. Streets like Operngasse,
Muhlgasse, and Schleifmuhlgasse are filled with trendy
and traditional art galleries, home furnishings shops,
fashion boutiques, eateries, cafes and food shops. Some
of the local favorites that looked pretty good to us
where: "The Point of Sale" a coffee shop,
"The Breakfast Club" for breakfast and lunch,
"Rauminhalt" modern furniture, "Grand
Cacao" outrageous chocolates, "Babette's"
cookbooks, "Restaurant Muhlbach" trendy
restaurant-bar-cafe, "Cafe Anzengruber"
traditional, "Altwien" house-roasted coffee,
etc. We strolled the streets into the early evening as
folks returned from work and began filling up the bars,
cafes and restaurants. Freihausviertel is young, fun and
full of energy. If you don't move here, visit!
The public transportation system is
superb with efficient and clean underground, bus and tram
service. The 72 hour Vienna Card
for 16.90 euro covers it all plus other free entrances
and discounts. It's a real bargain.
With Vienna Card in hand we zipped
over to Burggasse 63 to Restaurant Zu den 2 Lieserln
which a friend had recommended. It's small with paneled
walls, decorated with a few artifacts. The specialty here
is schnitzel. We started with delicious Ottakringer beer
and very good Viennese soup (beef broth with pieces of
meat, vegetables, noodles and herbs) served hot and
hearty. We had the small size (more than enough, even for
me!) schnitzel, a thick slice of tender pork lightly
battered and fried to a crisp doneness, which was served
with a large portion of delectable potato salad. Cost was
very reasonable; exceptional value here!
A short walk after breakfast and we arrived
at the Naschmarkt, uniquely located between the banks (Wienzeile
Linke, left and Wienzeile Rechte, right) of the Wien
river, roofed during the nineteenth century. The
Naschmarkt, a Viennese institution, is the largest market
with a middle eastern influence. Neat stalls sell
everything from foods to clothing to household products
and there are many cafes, bars and restaurants for a
lunch break. Following the demographics of the
surrounding area, there seems to be a movement to a bit
more upscale and trendy direction for the eating and
drinking establishments. For added shopping fun there is
a Saturday morning flea market. The offerings were
enticing but after our bountiful breakfast, we were able
to move on without indulging.
We passed Cafe Sperl, one of Vienna's
oldest and most famous, and again we were tempted, but
there was no sense stopping unless we were prepared to do
the Cafe thing, sit for a while sip a coffee and slowly
enjoy a sweet, which we were not.
Konigsklostergasse brought us to Karl
Schweighofergasse and to the five streets between
Siebensterngasse and Burgasse that make up the very
popular Spittelberg Quarter. After restoration and
revitalization of the Baroque buildings, the area is
vibrant with colorful narrow streets, randomly linked by
alleyways and passageways, a maze of interesting cafes,
bars, restaurants and shops neatly integrated with the
fine homes.
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Spittelberg is a neighbor of the MuseumsQuartier Wien, a huge cultural complex dedicated to
modern and contemporary art and culture. Originally the
Imperial Stables, it became a venue for trade fairs and
exhibits and in 2001 was inaugurated as the
MuseumsQuartier. The historic buildings were restored and
integrated with new contemporary designs creating a
spectacular oasis of art, culture, fun and relaxation on
a site in the city between the historic Vienna Hofburg
Palace, Imperial residence & Palace of art, and the
evolving contemporary neighborhoods. It's a brilliant
blending of the old and new.
This is one of the ten largest
cultural complexes in the world with venues for fine and
performing arts, music, fashion, theater, architecture,
new media and children's culture. The most recent
buildings best identify the character of todays
MuseumsQuartier.
The white limestone Leopold Museum
displays the world's largest Schiele collection plus
works by Kokoschka, Gerstl, Kubin and others.
The Museum of Modern Art Ludwig
Foundation of Vienna, a beauty of dark basalt lava,
documents the important artistic trends of the twentieth
century.
The brick new Kunsthalle Wien
emphasizes the avant-garde, with changing exhibitions and
developments on the international art scene.
The Architecture Center Vienna
presents exciting contemporary exhibits and in its
permanent exhibition features Austrian architecture of
the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Children are
treated to creative experiences at the Zoom Childrens
Museum and the Dischungel Wien, Theater House for a young
audience. Quartier 21 offers space for the presentations
and creations of cultural exhibitors, Halls E and G are
used for festivals and modern body art of all kinds can
be seen at the Tanzquartier Wien.
There is an Artist-in-Residence
Program that fosters international, project-related
exchange financed with the aid of private sponsors. Each
year about forty artists from other countries are invited
to work on location on joint projects with the resident
cultural initiatives.
Standing in the enormous lively
inner courtyard surrounded by this spectacular marriage
of tradition and modern, it was easy to understand why
the MuseumsQuartier and its environs has become such a
popular destination.
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When you have satiated your art and
culture needs, you can spend hours strolling
Mariahilferstrasse, the fabulous mile-long shopping
street that starts at the MuseumsQuartier, or take a
break at one of the strategically located, beautifully
designed cafes, bars or restaurants.
At Museumplatz, across the way
toward the city center, wonderful Hapsburg buildings
house the Kunsthistorisches Museum and the
Naturhistorisches Museum. The former contains the largest
Bruegel collection in the world plus works of other great
masters including Raphael, Rembrandt and Rubens, and the
Hapsburgs significant collections of sculpture and
decorative arts from Greek, Roman, Egyptian and Near
Eastern antiquities. The Museum of Natural History houses
treasures from pre-historic to endangered and extinct
species.
We continued on to Heldenplatz and
the magnificent, architecturally exquisite, Hofburg Wein. The Imperial Palace, formerly the center
of the vast empire of the Hapsburg dynasty, now houses
the offices of the Austrian President and a host of
attractions including cafes, restaurants and gardens.
There is much to experience here: the Vienna Boys Choir
sings mass at the Chapel on Sundays, the Lipizzaner
stallions perform at the Spanish Riding School, the
private rooms of the Empress Sisi in the Imperial
apartments can be visited, as well as more than twenty-four
museums.
We headed directly
to the greenhouse complex of the gardens because we had a
tip that there was a new restaurant with very good food
in that unique setting. A section of the old greenhouse
has been turned into a bright, airy, glorious dining
experience. The high, intricately-designed glass roof and
windows allows the sunshine to stream in for the trees,
vines and plants that grace the open space. The fresh,
contemporary design includes a long bar with comfy stools
and an open kitchen featuring fresh fish. We decided on
salads of beets, fresh grilled tuna and greens from the
daily menu and saved our calorie intake for the
outrageous desserts we would indulge in later in the
afternoon.
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Walking on Kohlmarkt, one of the
city centers premier shopping ways, we stopped in
our tracks at #14 in front of Demel, our dessert dream come true. The ancient
wood counters and cases display a marvelous selection of
pastries and candies. We wandered through rooms of
Viennese charm and found a table at the rear near an open
kitchen where the chefs performed their magic. After
settling in, we returned to the front to make our
selections and received a ticket with a number to give to
our waitress. Choosing was very difficult because
everything looked so wonderful. I had a soft doughy bun
filled with fresh plums in an awesome vanilla sauce and
Linda a three-layer torte of apples, poppy seeds and
plums, and a large side of "the best yet"
schlag. The coffee, of course, was excellent. By the way,
Demel also offers a contemporary food menu.
At the end of Kohlmarkt at Am
Graben 19 is Julius Meinl am Graben, one of the finest gourmet food emporiums
we have encountered. Starting life in 1862 roasting green
coffee beans on the family kitchen stove, it evolved into
a retail food empire which was lost after the outbreak of
WWII. In 1996 Meinl returned to its roots as a leading
supplier of coffees, teas, jams and other fine foods.
This posh culinary epicenter was opened in 2000 with
three floors of magnificently presented food products
from around the world. There is an elegant restaurant on
the first floor and a separate seafood bar with stools
and stand-up tables. For something lighter there's a
ground floor cafe and prepared foods counter. It was a
sensual treat just being there.
We walked through town back to our
hotel for a brief rest before strolling over to Restaurant Waldviertlerhof, Schonbrunnerstrasse 20, for a marvelous
traditional Viennese experience. There are many rooms and
every one was packed, many with large parties. Busy as it
was, our waiter was attentive and helpful. We had sturm
for the first time this trip and regretted having waited
so long to indulge. (Sturm is delicious, semi-fermented
grape juice from the first grape harvest of the season.)
Linda had knoedln scrambled with egg, onions and herbs
with a mixed salad and I, young deer in a luscious
mushroom sauce, a soft and tasty knoedl (that put all
others to shame), and cranberry sauce. Perfect from every
aspect, including the reasonable prices, Waldviertlerhof
is excellent value.
Today was moving day. We took the
underground to St. Stephansplatz, the heart of the old
center walked past St. Stephens cathedral for a
short distance on Schulerstrasse to #14, Hotel Domizil,
a fabulous city center location. This is a cozy charmer
with a friendly, caring staff. The lobby, with reception
desk, has a small bar and complimentary internet point. A
bountiful breakfast buffet is served in the adjacent
pretty breakfast room.
Tall double doors opened to our
room that exuded homey comfort with a king bed, desk,
chairs and a small table. The nicely tiled bathroom with
a tub and shower was stocked with the basic necessities.
All the furnishings were well chosen and good quality.
We made our way over to Judenplatz to the
New Museum Judenplatz, an annex of the Jewish Museum
Vienna, and the Memorial to the Austrian victims of the
Shoah. The idea of the memorial was conceived by Simon
Wiesenthal and realized in October 2000. Brilliantly
designed by the British sculptress Rachel Whiteread, it
has the form of a library turned inside out, the exterior
walls in the form of library shelves. Around the bottom
of the monument are engraved the names of 65,000 Austrian
Jews that were put to death during the Nazi regime. The
Memorial is linked to the Information Rooms on the Shoah
on the ground floor of the New Museum in the Misrachi
house, Judenplatz 8, whose contents have been provided by
the Documentation Archives of the Austrian Resistance.
The multimedia presentation consists of the names and
data of the 65,000 Jews together with the circumstances
that led to their persecution and death.
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The New Museum Judenplatz is made
up of three permanent exhibition rooms depicting medieval
Jewish life in Vienna and the excavations of the medieval
synagogue, one of the largest in Europe, which was
discovered in 1995 beneath Judenplatz. A multi-media
presentation vividly portrays the religious, cultural,
business and social life of the Viennese Jews of the
Middle Ages until their expulsion and death in 1420/21
during the "First Vienna Gesera", as it is
called. The late medieval synagogue was built around the
middle of the 13th century and in the ensuing 150 years,
it was enlarged to about 4320 sq.ft. After the pogrom in
1420/21 it was systematically destroyed so that only the
foundations and floor remained. The archaeological
exhibition room houses the remnants of the synagogue,
which consisted of three rooms, before the last
enlargement. A few surviving ceramic floor tiles are
displayed.
The Jewish Museum Vienna, is housed
in the Palais Eskeles, Dorotheergasse 11. Remembrance is
the key to Jewish culture and it permeates the museum,
which is a place of encounter, communication and
discussion via symposiums, readings, concerts etc. The
permanent exhibitions are supplemented by temporary
exhibits on Jewish history, religion and culture.
The presentation of Max Berger
Judaica collection, dating mostly from the Hapsburg
monarchy, explains the function of ritual objects in the
Jewish festivals and daily life.
New York artist Nancy Spero has
interpreted images and texts of the history of Vienna and
stamped them on the walls to provide a fresco-like
fragment of remembrance that complements the Judaica
collection.
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An outstanding hologram
presentation depicts the Jewish experience in Vienna from
the middle ages to the present. It is an interesting
interpretation of Vienna's Jewish history, three-dimensional,
yet intangible, as the images appear and disappear as one
moves through the gallery.
The viewable storage area displays
the entire inventory of ritual objects that had been
brutally removed from their accustomed places, the
households, synagogues and prayer houses, in 1938. The
museum archives provide fragmentary excerpts from Jewish
life.
There was a marvelous temporary
exhibit, "Mahleriana, the Making of an Icon",
that ends January 8, 2006. This exhibition by the
International Gustav Mahler Society documents the Society's
commitment to the recognition of Mahler's music. The
society has managed to salvage the three composing huts
on the Attersee, Woerthersee and in South Tyrol, where
Mahler composed his music, and has turned them into
memorials to the artist. The significance of the
composing huts is a central theme of the exhibition.
There is an audio guide of Mahlers music and
comments by his family, friends and other musicians.
We found fabulous apple strudel at
Cafe Diglas, Wollzeile 10. The food being served looked
appetizing but we were here with other intentions. The
plump strudel with crispy pastry was filled with apples,
raisins and nuts and served at room temperature, my
favorite way. The coffee was superb. Thank you, call
again, member of the apple strudel club!
At the beginning of the 19th
century the Jewish community of Vienna received
permission to build a synagogue under the condition that
it would not be seen from the street. So it was that the
monumental Stadttempel synagogue was built on
Seitenstettengasse from 1824-26 and consecrated on April
9, 1826; Cantor Solomon Sulzer performed a musical
arrangement written by Franz Schubert.
The Neo-Classical design was one of
the most innovative in the city and became a model for
other synagogues in western Europe. It became the first
official Ashkenazi communal synagogue. Two five-storey
elongated apartment buildings facing the street concealed
the synagogue from view. The building was built in an
oval shape with a large umbrella-like dome. Twelve Ionic
columns, for the twelve tribes of Israel, support a two-tiered
women's gallery. The ceiling was painted sky blue with
golden stars. The Bimah was on the east side of the hall
and opposite it stood the double level Holy Ark. On top
are the Tablets of the Law within a golden sunburst. A
memorial to the 65,000 Jews who were murdered has been
erected in the foyer. Names are engraved on rotating
slate tablets. Pieces are broken off the center granite
column, symbolizing the destruction of the Jewish
community in Vienna in 1938.
The interior was only slightly
damaged during Kristallnacht. It was repaired in 1945 and
rededicated in 1946, its 120th anniversary, with a public
prayer in the presence of cabinet ministers. It was
declared a historic site and is the central synagogue of
the Jewish community of Vienna.
We must admit that it was a very
good job of concealment because if we did not bump into a
security official, we might still be looking for the
entrance.
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The same friend that recommended
last evenings restaurant also suggested Gasthaus Zu
Den 3 Hacken, Singerstrasse 28, telephone 512-5895, the
oldest tavern in Vienna, a few minutes walk from the
Domizil. An enticing green patio leads into a warm
neighborhood environment complete with a lovely waitress.
Our Scwechater Hofenperie beer won the best beer award,
delicious, especially with the yummy, doughy rye pretzel.
The beef, vegetable and noodle soup, an old favorite, was
excellent. Roast pork with sauerkraut and sautéed liver
were both served with wonderful semolina dumplings. This
was a splendid, very good value home-style Austrian meal
for fond memories of our last dinner of the trip.
At Wien-Mitte Bahnhof it is
possible to check luggage and get a boarding pass for
many airlines from 24 hours to 75 minutes prior to
departure. You have to use the CAT, city airport train to use this advance
boarding pass/luggage check service. The CAT offers a
discount with the Vienna card. A cheaper alternative from
Wien-Mitte, is to take the "S" line #7 to the
airport for 1.50 euro. The CAT takes about 8 minutes less
than the "S" line to the airport.
After a substantial breakfast at
Hotel Domizil, we wheeled our bags to St. Stephansplatz,
took the U3 line to Wien-Mitte, transferred to the "S"
line and took #7 to the airport.
I had my deer many ways and Linda
her share of schnitzel and all the strudel mit schlag we
could handle. The mountain air was fresh and the lakes
sparkling. The cities and towns were a wonderful world of
tradition, bursting with a new energy. Make plans to go -
be there to sing Happy Birthday to Mozart!
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Salzburg | Kufstein_Kitzbuehel
Rattenberg_Hall | Innsbruck
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Klagenfurt | Graz | Vienna
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