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AUSTRIA
FALL 2005
Spittal
The train ride from Zell am See to
Millstaetter See in Carinthia (Austria's
southernmost region) provided the most unforgettable and
dramatic scenery of our entire voyage. We wove around
forested mountains looking down at lush valleys and rocky
gorges with racing rivers and small immaculate villages
with splendid homes climbing up the green mountainsides.
The train pulled into Spittal an
der Drau which is located on the southwestern corner of
the lake. Since we would be staying in Obermillstaett
high above the Millstaetter See, we decided to check our
bags and visit Spittal while we were here.
The Porcia Castle and garden was
our first stop. The 16th century Renaissance castle has a
beautifully sculptured main entrance and a large
attractive courtyard with arched pillars and curved
balconies. Proms and productions of classic comedies are
held here in the summer and a choir concert competition
is an annual event. The gallery of the courtyard is used
for art exhibits. The upper floors house the Museum of
Folklore with exhibits and programs for children to
experience the history of upper Carinthia.
The Rathaus across the way, also 16th
century Renaissance, has a lovely open courtyard. It is a
social gathering spot with a cocktail bar and tables;
its especially popular in warm weather when its
architectural design keeps the temperatures cool.
The Technikum Karnten is a
university for the study of architecture. There are about
200 students from Austria and neighboring countries. The
large main lobby was being prepared by members of the
Army for the evening Army Choir performance.
A gorgeous red
stone building at Neuer Platz 17 caught our eye and we
discovered that it is a 100-year old home that is a
family owned and operated restaurant, Mettnitzer. How
lucky - we were ready for lunch! The architecture and
design of the magnificent rooms have been retained and it
is like dining in an ancient palace. The menu of
traditional and seasonal favorites made the choices
difficult. We both decided to start with pumpkin soup and
try the house specialty, karnter kasnudel, the local
version of agnolotti, which is filled with quark and
herbs in brown butter, served with a large green salad.
Apple cake with cinnamon ice cream and schlag was a
delicious finish to a marvelous, fairly-priced lunch.
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When we stood on the expansive, sun-soaked
terrace of the Biohotel Alpenrose, 900m above Lake Millstaetter See, breathing the crystal clear air, the aura
of peace and contentment was palpable. Was it the longer
than usual hours of sunshine and warmth or the protection
provided by the Tauern mountain range or the
Mediterranean jet stream that flows from the south?
Whatever the reason, the feeling and the view were
amazing.
Biohotel Alpenrose
is located on a south-facing slope on a sunny plateau
amidst lush meadows with incredible views of the lake and
mountains. We noted that every lounge and chair on the
deck, poolside and on the grounds, was facing south and
on the lower level along with a wellness center was a
"silent sun room", with direct entry to the
pool, which captured the suns rays streaming in through
the windows. Catching the November sun seemed to be a
very popular activity with the guests. Linda was very
happy to find a washer and dryer, which is available to
guests for a nominal fee.
Next to the reception area is a
charming, small wood-paneled room with tables, chairs,
benches and an old fashioned, large white heating stove.
It is a serene spot for enjoying a glass of wine, reading
a newspaper or getting caught up on note-taking for
TheTravelzine. :-)
There is a TV room off the lobby
area but no TVs in the guest rooms unless requested when
reservations are made. There is no elevator but the staff
is more than happy to help with your luggage.
Our bedroom was beautifully done in
light woods and white with a gorgeous south-facing view
over the lake and mountains from our small balcony. The
excellent quality of the woodwork and furniture was
particularly impressive. The built-in closet space was
more than adequate for a long stay. The toilet room and
bath/shower room were sparkling clean and stocked with
amenities including bathrobes.
The family Obweger-Theuermann and
the staff make the hotel a special retreat. They are
truly committed to the care and well being of their
guests. Surrounded by organic farms which grow their own
medicinal herbs, The Alpenrose was Austria's first bio-non-smoking
hotel. Guests returning from their outdoor activities may
choose to take advantage of the healing power of precious
stones, medicinal herbs, pleasant herbal baths and
healing massage available in the wellness center.
We had dinner at Buschenschenke Hoefler, Waldweg 6, Millstatt. This is one of the
category of farm restaurants that can open only at
limited times during the year and sell only the products
grown and produced on the farm. A straw bush indicating
they were open was hanging on the sign as we turned onto
the road leading in through the forest. The tables were
filled when we arrived except for the place reserved for
us.
The Familie Unterlerchner where
happily preparing and serving the obviously ravenous
patrons. The beverage of choice here is Apfelmost, apple
cider, and it is fresh and delicious. We had a wooden
platter of assorted smoked meats fresh cheese, liver pate,
pickles and a bowl of cooked garlic buds. All of this is
of course eaten with large quantities of crusty dense
bread. This was truly an authentically Alpine experience.
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It's difficult to write about one
meal after another, but in this case it is really easy
because breakfast at Alpenrose was special. The tables
and chairs were dressed in a pretty white embossed fabric
and the table settings were of quality china and flatware.
The healthy buffet was comprised of a selection of the
finest quality organic products. Freshly pressed
strawberry juice was an awesome starter. The soft boiled
eggs were the largest and freshest I have had since I was
a child. Fresh fruit salad was carefully prepared from a
flavorful selection of delicious specimens. Each of the
large variety of nuts was crunchy and fresh. There was
cheese for every taste and the meats were as lean as
could be. All the organic vegetables, jams and jellies
were wonderful as were the breads and rolls. There were
some exquisite looking pastries but enough was enough,
even for us!
Along the way we had met many
Austrians who had great curiosity about Canada. We had
met one such woman at the train station when we were
checking our luggage and she offered to spend some time
with us the next day, to show us why her lake and
mountains were so special. In exchange we would tell her
all she wanted to know about our country.
As she guided us around the mountains she
more than proved her point. The Millstaetter See is
nestled in the mountains of Nockberg National Park - lake
and mountains, constant companions. Driving through the
forests and we were enraptured with ever-changing,
gorgeous vistas including the crystal clear lake
sparkling below.
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While skiing was the major focus in
Tirol the opposite is true here. Yes, there are numerous
slopes and lifts just twenty-minutes away and with one
ski pass you can hit them all. But the real thrill is to
embrace this paradise between spring and autumn. Start
with a lake of drinking-quality water with a high mineral
content, add some sunshine and youve found a
perfect place for swimming. Next season (2006) there is a
program called "Lake Touching" which will offer
unusual opportunities for skin-to-skin contact with the
water such as floating or swimming under the care of a
trained water guide to experience the thousand-hand
massage, aesthetic high diving or practicing Qi Gong at
the lake. Then theres this unique experience: a
boat will ferry the two of you to your own floating
island, a raft in the middle of the lake, where you will
be served dinner prepared personally for you by a top
chef. Is that romantic, or what!
There's a new twenty-eight
kilometer track around the lake for bicyclers to discover
the culture of the lake villages, the unspoiled nature on
the southern shore.
Explore the moor bath and mineral
springs of the Mirnock, which is home to Austria's
longest Kneipp water therapy footpath with twelve
kilometers of water stepping basins and instructions for
gymnastic exercises.
The "Friendly Mountains"
contain 500KM of hiking trails and signposted mountain
biking routes across the landscape between the lake and
the high mountains and there is no better way to learn
the secrets of the mountains than to wander through the
forests and meadows and, with the lake always in view,
the knowledge that you can cool off in the welcoming
waters.
At this point we wished we had
planned more time here to wander the trails. As we
twisted around the forested mountain sides the awesome
colors and scents of autumn were in full bloom around us
and we were thankful we at least had this opportunity to
touch the mountains.
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Our friend drove us to Stanahof Baumgartner, Moosewald 20, Fresach, high in the
mountains south of the lake. Mrs. Baumgartner and her
daughter proudly welcomed us to their guest home, farm
and mud treatment center.
Mrs. Baumgartner discovered the
therapeutic mud on the land when she was growing up on
this magnificent property. She had always thought about
developing her discovery into a treatment center until,
finally, four years ago she had the mud scientifically
analyzed and it was found to be of the best quality found
in Austria. She went to Italy to study the techniques of
working with the mud, and the proper handling and various
uses and applications.
Mrs. Baumgartner suggested a mud
treatment for Linda, who eagerly agreed, so we were off
to the outdoor clinic in middle of the mud fields.
Passing her farm animals, Mrs. B stopped to chat with
them. We walked on
through the grassy meadow to a spot nestled in the trees
where she had built containers out of wood and hollowed
out tree trunks for the proper storage and handling of
the mud.
There was a large pen for those
desiring the full body treatment, i.e., rolling in the
mud. Linda was not prepared for such a big move and
instead sat on a wooden bench while Mrs. B gently brushed
mud on her face. She looked very cute though I doubt she
will ever allow the photos we took to be viewed. (Guess
again!)
After the mud dried by the mountain
air and the sun, it was washed off and Lindas skin
had a lovely, healthy glow and she said it felt good. Mrs.
B walked us over to another nearby mud field and
described how she had once found a deer rolling around
taking a mud bath in a spot he had dug precisely for that
purpose.
They have built a little wooden
childrens playhouse, called Stana's Barenhaus,
which is filled with a zillion teddy bears and other
stuffed animals. Outside there is a barbecue, tables and
play area for guests and visitors.
Before departing, we had lunch
overlooking the lake on the Alpenrose terrace - a lunch
not soon forgotten. Fresh tomato cream soup and
selections from a salad buffet was a good beginning. Pan
fried, lightly-breaded, thick filets of Zander were the
best ever rendition of this dish. The organic boiled
potatoes, steamed young baby carrots and white asparagus
were heavenly. We made wise choices from the dessert
buffet - everything in sight! The apple and cheese
strudels were amazing, but the homemade vanilla ice cream
- incredible! Bio-Hotel Alpenrose has it all. Obviously,
we have very fond memories of our short stay at the
Millstaetter See.
We had been planning to take the
train to Klagenfurt but as it turned out our friend was
driving to Graz for the long week-end and since
Klagenfurt was on her way, and she insisted we keep her
company.
Passing through Spittal an der Drau,
Kathy asked if wed be interested in visiting the Gabor factory outlet
store. Hello! Gabor is a
popular brand of shoes that originated in Slovakia with
production there and here in Spittal. Linda found a
casual, short boot she couldnt live without, at 40%
off retail.
Klagenfurt, here we come!
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Wachau_Krems_Melk_Durnstein
Salzburg | Kufstein_Kitzbuehel
Rattenberg_Hall | Innsbruck
Zell Am See_Kaprun | Spittal
Klagenfurt | Graz | Vienna
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