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AUSTRIA
FALL 2005
Salzburg
During the 2 1/2 hour train ride
from Melk to Salzburg, we had plenty of time to enjoy the
schnitzel sandwiches we had salvaged from last
nights dinner. None of our train rides were to be
longer than 3 hours, most were considerably shorter. The
changing scenery was glorious; we find this mode of
travel a wonderful way to fully appreciate the wonders of
nature passing us by.
We were staying in the Mirabell
District on the north bank of the Salzach, which runs
picturesquely through the city. The Hotel Crowne Plaza
- Pitter is a 10-minute
walk from the train station. It is conveniently located
across from the Salzburg Congress, near Mirabell Garden,
and just a 10- minute walk to the old city center across
the way.
Our check-in was friendly and
efficient. There is an internet point next to reception
that can be used at no charge for 5 minutes. This was the
only hotel we stayed in that did not have unlimited free
internet access. We have never found that guests take
unfair advantage when they know others are waiting.
Our lovely room, with well-chosen,
good-quality furnishings and excellent lighting, had a
cabinet dividing the sitting and sleeping areas. The TV
was on a swivel, thus viewable from either direction. The
toilet was in a separate room next to the bathroom, which
was well-stocked with amenities and towels. Bathrobes
were available for use at the indoor pool and wellness
facilities. A pant presser, iron/ironing board and coffee/tea
maker rounded out the comforts.
Breakfast had it all plus a few
special extras, such as smoked salmon and made-to-order
waffles, omelettes and pancakes. The buffet was well
maintained and the service was very good.
Armed with our Salzburg Card, which is good for free use of public
transportation in the city and lots of free admissions
and discounts, we hopped on bus #25 for a visit to Hellbrunn.
The Archbishop Markus Sittikus did
not build the Hellbrunn Summer Palace as a residence or
for governing, but solely for pleasure. The Park of the
Palace is a paradise of groomed lawns, hedges, trees,
shrubs and waterways - a retreat, a place to stroll,
relax and contemplate. We met a nice lady at the bus stop
and she told us she visits regularly for just that
purpose. It's also a place for families, with
childrens play areas and most important the world-famous
trick fountains. "Dark grottos, mystical sculptures,
graceful fountains and a special feast for the eyes, an
intricate mechanical theatre magically come to life
powered by water." I am quoting this as the trick
fountains were closed for the evening so we did not
experience the thrill first hand.
The nice lady also recommended the Stieglbrau, Rainerstrasse 14, a few steps from our
hotel, for dinner this evening. What wine is to the
Wachau, beer is to Salzburg. This typical beer tavern
consists of the braustube (saloon), where we joined the
happy diners, a beer garden, and a festival room for
special parties. A Konig Ludwig Dunkel, luscious dark
beer, got us into the Salzburg lifestyle. We decided to
share two traditional favorites, herring and tafelspitz.
The herring filets were served with boiled potato,
smothered in sour cream and garnished with onion, apple,
pickle, tomato and lettuce. Keep the beer flowing!
Tafelspitz is plain and simple boiled beef in natural
herbed broth with vegetable and potato, served with a
side of white horseradish sauce. The herring was
excellent but the tafelspitz was a bit too bland for my
taste. The apple strudel competition continued with a
very good rendition accompanied by schlag and vanilla ice
cream. Good stuff at good prices, good value.
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I should point out that so far we
had been starting our evening meal between 18:30 and 19:30
and in most cases found the restaurants already busy.
Eating times here are similar to those at home in Toronto.
Salzburg is a very unique city by
virtue of its rich culture of world class music. Wolfgang
Amadeus Mozart was born and studied composition here and
his and other great composers works can be heard in
every concert hall, church and palace in this metropolis
of architectural beauty. The famous Salzburg Festival,
dating back to the beginning of the 20th century, has
attracted audiences from around globe. The mountains of
Kapuzineberg to the north and Monchsberg to the south
with the Salzach flowing between create a stunning
landscape to house this citadel of music, culture and
beauty.
As we walked through the city, one
thing became abundantly clear: Mozart is everywhere! On
Jan.27th the year-long celebration of the 250th anniversary of Mozart's birth
gets underway and there are restoration and construction
projects, sworn to be ready on time, everywhere. If you
love the music of Mozart, 2006, more than ever, is the
time to visit Salzburg.
We started our walk in the Mirabell
District at the Palace and Gardens. The Marble Hall of
the Palace, built in 1606, is said to be the "most
beautiful wedding hall in the world". The French
Baroque Garden with its maze, rose garden, and sculptures
was a delight on this beautiful day. The Dwarves Garden
offers a whimsical diversion while the Hedge Theatre is
the oldest garden theatre in the German world.
Beside the gardens, the Mozarteum
Foundation, for studying everything and anything related
to the great composer, is adjacent to the Salzburg
Marionette Theatre where performances by marionettes run
the musical gamut, specializing in Mozart operas,
naturally.
Linzergasse is a vibrant pedestrian
shopping street that runs alongside Kapuzinerberg from
which there is a pathway lined with the Stations of the
Cross that leads up the mountain for great views.
The St. Sebastian Cemetery, located
next to the church of the same name, was brilliantly
designed by Andreas Berteleto in the style of an Italian
"campo santo". Long arched corridors are lined
with sculptures and plaques on the pillars and walls in
memory of those interred here, among them Mozart's wife
Constanze and his father Leopold.
When the Mozart familys first
house became too small they moved to Makart Square 8.
Mozart lived in the house from 1773-1780. There is a
multi-media museum on the first floor documenting the
history of the building and the life of the family.
We crossed the river via the
pedestrian Markartsteg to Griesgasse and passed through
one of the narrow, store-lined arcades that connect to
Getreidegasse, Austria's most beautiful shopping street.
Intricate, beautifully decorative wrought iron signs,
originally designed as a means identifying, for
illiterate citizens, the wares sold within or the name of
the owner, overhang the street. It is said that the M
within the McDonalds sign is made of solid gold for a
lasting heritage.
Within the charm of this old world
architecture is some of the finest fashion and food found
anywhere. Stroll through the arcades on either side of
the street and youll find wonderful boutiques,
cafes, food shops and restaurants waiting to be
discovered.
We passed through one such arcade
to the market place behind which was filled with mobile
food stations and stands offering a large array of foods
to be eaten at stand up tables, while strolling along or
at home. Still sated from the substantial breakfast, we
didnt indulge.
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The Festival District is just
behind the market running along the base of the
Monchsbert. The huge festival hall, site of the largest
festival productions, is being enlarged to accommodate
the Haus for Mozart as part of the 2006 celebrations. The
well-known horse pond, toy museum and St.Blaise's church
are right nearby.
Continuing along the base of the
mountain we came to St. Peters Abbey, Cemetery and
Catacombs in the Fortress District. The church and
monastery, founded around the year 700, is the oldest
continuously-active monastery in the German world. The
interior of the church is Romanesque style with the
Rococo decoration reflected in the large number of alters.
Music and theatre was avidly fostered and in 1769, at the
age of thirteen, Mozart composed the Dominicus Mass for
Abbot Hagenauer; in 1783, Mozart personally directed his
famous Mass in C-Minor. The cemetery, with its arcades,
artistic wrought iron gates, lovely landscaping and
memorials has a mystical appeal that has always attracted
visitors.
Departing via the rear exit of the
cemetery we came to the rushing waters of the old, still-working
water mill. Next to the mill is Al Teste Backerei, the
oldest bakery in the city, where they bake dark bread,
which locals buy warm from the oven to be kept for a day
before eating.
The Hohensalzburg Fortress sits
high on the mountain above and is reachable by the
funicular or by foot. With our Salzburg cards, well
opt for a free ride up tomorrow.
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Passing into the Cathedral District
we were awestruck by the design and setting of the
cathedral. The reconstruction of the original medieval
cathedral, destroyed by fire in 1598, began in 1614 and
was completed 14 years later. The architect, Santino
Solari, combined Baroque and Italian design to create a
twin towered, high domed stunning structure on the edge
of the large, attractive Dom Platz. This is the only
church in the world to have 5 fixed organs; it's the
Mozart effect. Mozart was the church organist who
composed his music for the masses.
The adjacent ResidenzPlatz, the
largest square in town, is home to the magnificent
archiepiscopal Residenz, with its state rooms and gallery.
The new Residenz and Salzburg Carillon sit across the way.
The famous horses and buggies of Salzburg are parked here,
waiting to be hired by deep- pocketed tourists. Next door
Mozart Platz is dominated by the Mozart memorial erected
in 1842, a special place for listening to the world
famous Salzburg Carillon which sounds daily from the
archbishop's palace.
After all this activity we were
hungry and scurried back down Getreidegasse past
Mozarts birth home, which now houses the Mozart
Museum, to that narrow passageway where we earlier had
spotted Zum Wilden Mann, Getreidegasse 20, as a possible
lunch place.
The tables were filled with
Salzburgs finest, from tradesman to business people
all with one thing in common, a love of home style
cooking and beer. We shared a table with a fellow buried
in his newspaper. Stiegl beer (the largest brewery in the
country) was a good way to start. Linda had a
farmers soup, clear beef broth loaded with beef,
vegetables and noodles plus a mixed salad. I had my first
bratwurst in Austria with amazing sauerkraut and home
fried potatoes. The apple strudel arrived buried in
powdered sugar, which we returned for a naked serving.
The filling was good but the dough a bit too thick
out of the running for our contest. With excellent
service, this place definitely offers very good value in
all respects.
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We walked off lunch exploring all
the nooks and crannies of Getreidegasse, wandered though
the picturesque alter markt past Cafe Tomaselli, the
oldest cafe in the city, and made a visit to Franziskaner
Kirche, one of the citys oldest churches. Most
impressive is the height of the massive stone pillars and
archways and the striking pink and gold high alter.
The Staatsbrucke is the main bridge
from the old city to Mirabell. At the end of the bridge
is the Hotel Stein which has a rooftop terrace cafe from
which there are excellent views of the old city in the
shadow of Kapuzineberg from which Linda made her digital
magic.
Tonight we would have a special
treat attending a Mozart dinner concert in the Baroque
Hall of St.Peter's Monastery Cellar. The Peterskeller is
known as the oldest restaurant in Europe and is very
popular with locals and tourists. The ancient environment
is exceptional and judging from our dinner the food is
very good.
The Baroque Hall was a perfect
venue for this event. The string quartet and singers were
young music students who performed brilliantly. The
program started with a selection from "Don Giovanni".
The first course was a lemon cream soup with cinnamon
followed by a selection from "Le Nozze di Figaro'.
The main course of roasted capon with lovely vegetable
preparations was followed by a selection from "Die
Zauberflote". A semi-frozen parfait of honey
finished the evening. Seductive music, very good food and
of course excellent white wine from Wachau made for a
delightful evening.
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The Hohensalzburg Fortress,
Salzburg's landmark, is the largest preserved citadel in
Central Europe. The panoramic view over the city and
countryside is wonderful. The state rooms are a fine
example of late Gothic architecture. Of particular note
were a spectacular, large Majolica stove and an adorable
puppet museum.
Tucked into an arcade at
Getreidesgasse 3 is Schatz- Konditorei where we found the
most perfect baked goods. Apfel strudel was composed of
the freshest-tasting, most delectable apple and raisin
filling wrapped in perfectly- textured pastry, served at
room temperature as is my preference. Topfen (soft,
spreadable German cream cheese with a tangy flavor) and
raisin strudel, was of a texture and flavor not to be met
again. The coffee was as good as it gets. Do not miss
this slice of heaven.
At the end of Griesgasse at the
base of Monchsberg is the entrance and elevator to Museum
der Moderne Salzburg Monchsberg, the Museum of Modern Art. The contemporary design of the building,
done in a light local marble, is in stark contrast to
Baroque Salzburg and befits its new place in the cultural
life of the city. The views from the sculpture terrace
capture all the glory of the ensemble that is Salzburg.
There are four levels of space
exhibiting 20th and 21st century art as well as
presentations of the Austrian Photo Gallery. The
Restaurant Monchsberg 32 with a large open air terrace is
located on the 3rd level.
We walked through the mountain
forest behind the gallery in the direction of Mulln to
our destination the Augustiner Brau, Augustinergasse 4.
We were invigorated by the smell and beauty of nature
around us. There are many trails through this gorgeous
area for walking, hiking, and biking and best of all you
can always finish with Augustiner beer. The brewery was
founded in 1621 by Augustine monks and is known today as
the Braustubl at Mulln. The brewery is just behind the
four large beer halls and beer garden, with three smaller
rooms and others for special events.
Food is not served in the beer
halls but there is a wonderful selection of local
specialties available for purchase from small shops along
Standlgang Row, just outside the halls, which may be
taken inside to be enjoyed with the beer.
Two sizes of beer steins are
stacked neatly in wall racks. Select your stein, pay the
cashier (2.50 or 5.00 euro), rinse your stein in the
fountain and proceed to the counter where it will be
filled directly from a wooden keg. Crafted from an
ancient recipe, unpasteurized, free of additives and
brewed exclusively from the finest barley, hops, yeast
and water (it should be noted here that the water
throughout Austria is of the highest drinkable quality),
it is quite delicious, particularly when accompanied by a
sausage on a bun that my partner acquired from one of the
shops while I carried our beers to a table. Brauststubl Mulln
is a neat experience that should be appreciated while in
Salzburg.
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We visited the Synagogue at
Lasserstrasse 8, but since it is only open for services
on Friday evenings and Saturday mornings for the Sabbath,
we had to settle for photos of the exterior and the
Kristallnacht memorial monument. This Synagogue was built
in 1893 and is still active servicing the approximately
100 Jewish people in the community. Judengasse is an
extension of Getreidegasse and documents from the 12th
century describe it as the "alley of the Jews".
The original Synagogue was located at #15.
Tonight we would attend the
Salzburger Schlosskonzerte at Schloss Mirabell, so we
chose the nearby restaurant Stadtkrug, located in the hotel of the same name at
Linzergasse 20, for dinner.
The atmosphere is sedate and the
menu traditional. I started with a very good soup with a
strudel of minced beef that was hearty and tasty. Linda,
in wiener schnitzel mode, was happy to be able to
substitute a bread dumpling for the boiled potato. I had
roast lamb which was tasty but a bit chewy. The polenta
with parmesan and creamed spinach were good. The food and
spotty service did not justify the price.
The program for the wonderful
concert was a selection of the brilliant works of
Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and Franz Schubert performed by
the famous Minetti Quartet. This was a perfect way to end
our stay in this fascinating city of music, culture and
beauty.
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