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AUSTRIA
FALL 2005
Innsbruck
The Hotel Europa Tyrol is centrally located at Sudtiroler Platz 2,
across from the main train station. Built in 1869 as the
Grand Hotel de LEurope, it has retained its
comfortable Tyrolean tradition and atmosphere while
incorporating modern conveniences, such as a business
center with free internet, and complete fitness
facilities. While the public areas embrace a timeless,
European elegance, our large, twin-bedded room was
distinctly Alpine, light-colored wooden furniture. The
nice size bathroom, with double sinks, was well-stocked
with all the basics.
We decided to have lunch in the
hotel restaurant, Europastuberl, before catching the
Swarovski Kristallwelten (Crystal Worlds) Shuttle Bus
across the way. The comfortable dining rooms are
beautifully decorated with attractively-upholstered light
wood furniture and lovely table settings. Legend has it
that if the light wood, "Zirbe", is cut during
the full moon, it will radiate a natural aura of well
being forever after.
The preparation and presentation of
the two seasonal offerings we selected did justice to the
fine reputation of the restaurant. My tender medallions
of hare were presented in a dog rose sauce studded with
wild cherries accompanied by chestnut noodles, chestnuts
and savoy cabbage, a marriage made in heaven. Linda was
equally delighted with her osso bucco of venison knuckle
with homemade cranberry sauce, potato noodles and a crisp
side salad. The service was exceptional and the cost was
reasonable for the outstanding meal. We felt great. Was
it the full moon Zirbe or the skill in the kitchen?
The Swarovski Kristallwelten
Shuttle leaves Innsbruck main station every two hours
from 09:00 to 15:00, returning every two hours from 11:30
to 17:30. The trip takes just under 30 minutes each way.
The return fare is 8.50 euro, children under 12 are free.
Admission to Swarovski Crystal Worlds is 8.00 euro,
children under 12 are free.
Both the shuttle transfer and
admission are free with a valid Innsbruck Card which entitles you to free transportation
on all public transit and numerous other entrance fees
and discounts. It's a great buy!
Swarovski is a privately owned and
operated family business founded by Daniel Swarovski in
1892. Originally located in Bohemia, in what is now the
Czech Republic, where there is a long tradition of glass
and crystal manufacturing, Daniel Swarovski moved to the
Austrian Alps in 1895 to protect his unique inventions
from being stolen. Even today, the secrecy of
Swarovskis manufacturing method remains a top
priority for the company.
In 1995 Andre Heller staged the 100th
anniversary of the founding of the company as a tribute
to the employees and the Swarovski family. The exhibition
was so creative and compelling a suggestion was made to
turn the concept into an installation of lasting value.
Swarovski Crystal Worlds was born. It became such a
popular destination for visitors from around the world
that it was enlarged in l993.
We have collected
Swarovski crystal objects for most of our married life so
the opportunity to visit Swarovski at its world
headquarters in Wattens, intrigued us. We entered this
unique world of crystal art treasures and unique thought
and sensation-provoking experiences through the head of a
water-spouting giant into the dramatic Blue Hall with
treasured designs from Andy Warhol, Salvadore Dali and
Keith Haring, to name a few. We were enthralled by the
world's largest semi-precious stone, the Centenar, 300,000
carats of cut crystal. A wall 42 meters long and 11
meters high filled with 12 tons of glittering crystal was
dazzling.
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Swarovski Crystal
Worlds is a series of
presentations in thirteen Chambers of Wonder that allows
your emotions and feelings to run wild, such as the
Planet of Crystal, a 3D installation that blends
geometric images and sounds for your contemplation and
the Crystal Dome which emulates the inside of a crystal
in 590 mirrored facets, a light and sound spectacle.
Youngsters were particularly
intrigued by a room where the giants personal
belongings for his forays around the globe were on
display. There was a gigantic accordion playing melodies
custom written by Roland Neuwirth, a giant-size ring,
gloves and walking stick.
In addition, there are rooms with
special exhibits dedicated to significant works of art.
We were impressed by the Amber Room, Rastrelli's
masterpiece which has been missing since WWII, and can be
experienced with all senses in a true to scale
reproduction by Ingeborg Lüscher. Done in sole soap it's
evocative of amber in terms of color, transparency and
surface.
There is also a café-restaurant, a
VIP members lounge for card-carrying collectors and
the world's largest Swarovski Shop with eye-popping
arrays of crystal in all its glory (no admission ticket
is necessary to enter the shop). The grounds surrounding
the giant are designed as a playground with space for
sculptures. The Hand, a green maze, makes for a nice
stroll with the mountains around the site as a perfect
serene backdrop.
Swarovski Crystal Worlds is yet
another great reason to visit Tirol.
Since we had a one course lunch
today we felt no guilt in having a multi course dinner at
the Hotel Schwartzer Adler restaurant. We became a little concerned
about our well-being when we found the dining room was
done in dark wood! Fear not, the traditional friendly
character of the room and staff immediately made us feel
really good and right at home.
This would be an evening of total
relaxation starting with Campari orange for the lady and
a soft fruity dry white for me. The evenings
offerings were so outstanding that decision-making was
much too difficult for our serene mood so we prevailed
upon the owner to choose for us. He got us started with
small portions of amazing starters, including carpaccio
of deer topped with walnut vinaigrette and shavings of
local cheese followed by thinly sliced dumplings (servietten
knoedeln) with roasted mushrooms dressed with pumpkin
seed oil.
The appetizer sampling continued
with cups of rich, smooth cream of pumpkin soup dotted
with tiny slices of smoked deer and pumpkin oil followed
by spinach ravioli filled with cheese, cheese dumplings
and a bread-bacon dumpling.
As main courses, small orders of
filets of veal and pork in gorgonzola sauce with noodles
and escalope of venison stuffed with mushrooms and ham on
juniper sauce with pumpkin spaghetti and spetzle were
fabulous.
We finished with walnut ice cream,
chestnut cream and wild cherries for me and sorbet with
fresh berries for Linda. Thank you Harald Ultsch for
creating an unforgettable meal for us!
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After a beautifully-presented,
generous breakfast we were off to explore all that is Innsbruck, the capital of Tirol which twice hosted
the Olympics, and found its medieval heritage and
contemporary shopping gallerias harmoniously blended.
Framed by the rugged mountain sides with precipices
dotted by trees and snow with glaciated mountain peaks in
the distance, Innsbruck is the essence of all that is
Tirol.
By the way, we found it confusing
to find Tirol frequently spelled Tyrol. We were told that
the official spelling is Tirol. Tyrol was in fashion some
years ago.
In Innsbruck, there are three
powerful monuments to Tirol's past. The Rudolfsbrunnen,
Rudolphs Fountain, on Brixnerstrasse, was built in
1877 to commemorate the 500 years Tirol was part of the
Austrian federation and the province's transfer to the
Hapsburg King Rudolph in l363. Historic Maria-Theresien-Strasse
is the picturesque shopping boulevard that spans the
Innenstadt and Altstadt. At the south end of the street
is the majestic Triumphforte, Triumphal Arch, which was
built in 1765 to commemorate the marriage of Leopold II
to Maria Ludovica. Because Leopold's father died during
the celebrations, one side of the arch symbolizes joy and
the other side, sadness. In the middle of the boulevard
is the striking Annasaule, Anna Column, with
representations of Virgin Mary, St.Anne, and the Tirolean
patron saints. It is not only impressive in its own right
but when you see it from afar standing gracefully between
the rows of beautiful buildings with a backdrop of
forested slopes topped by snow-capped mountains you are
catching the essence of Innsbruck. The column was built
between 1704 and 1706 to commemorate Tirol's successful
resistance to the Bavarian invasion of 1703 during the
War of Spanish Succession.
Nearby the baroque Altes Landhaus (built
between 1725 and 1728) serves as the seat of the Tirolean
Parliament. We began by visiting the tiny, all white,
early baroque Landhaus Capela, no longer a functioning
church, with its striking gold cross portraying Jesus
standing tall.
Inside the Altes Landhaus a
gracious, wide stone staircase with lovely white
sculpture gracing the landings led us to the magnificent
Parliament room. Quite correctly the socialists sit to
the left, the conservatives to the right and all others
in the middle. Sculptures representing typical citizens
surround the room while a Swarovski chandelier hangs from
the center of the frescoed ceiling. The seats were very
comfortable and each had a wood writing arm. There is a
special feeling visiting the seat of any government;
decisions taken here affect the lives of so many.
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Leaving the Altes Landhaus we
boarded the red tourist bus (4 euro, free with the
Innsbruck Pass) to visit Grassmayr,
Leopold 53, bell makers since 1599. From church bells to
cow bells, Grassmayr bells peal in more than 100
countries on every continent. They have been making bells
for over 400 years. It was a unique experience to visit
the foundry and learn how the bells are produced. It
starts with working with the client to determine exactly
what they want which will determine everything from size,
shape, and acoustics of the bell or bells and then the
design of the system for operating them and finally the
installation. There is a sound room where you can have a
hands-on acoustical adventure. The bell museum will take
you from ore to bell and its historical development. They
will be happy to cast a personal Tirolean bell for you
with individual ornamentation, at a price, of course.
We stopped at Gasthaus Riese Haymon,
Haymonstrasse 4 (this was the first road leading to Italy)
for excellent coffee. The folks were very friendly and
the dining rooms and garden patio were tempting but it
was early so we continued up the road to Basilika Wilton,
an enormous white and yellow rococo beauty with frescoes
from 1755 and gold adorning the ceiling and walls and
attractive benches of carved light wood. Graves in the
adjoining cemetery were decorated with traditional Autumn
arrangements.
Returning to Maria-Theresien-Strasse
we boarded the bus to Hungerburg from which the
Nordkettebahn, (cable car to Seegrube - 1905M and on to
Hafelekar - 2334M - free with the Innsbruck Card), would
take us high on the Nordkette for panoramic views of the ski slopes and
Innsbruck below. After satisfying our mountain air
appetites with a tasty, thick, hearty goulash soup, we
were in good shape to stroll around and appreciate the
beauty surrounding us.
Returning, we departed the bus at
the Markthalle on the banks of the Inn. It's a well
organized market with individual stands offering well-displayed
quality products. There is open space where farmers set-up
shop early in the day.
We were intrigued by the
picturesque row of colorful homes lining Innstrasse
across the river so Linda took the time to ensure that we
could enjoy it again at home.
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The Altstadt (old town) is a
captivating dream featuring marvelous arcades and
architectural icons. Helblinghaus, originally a 15th
century Gothic town house, was decorated in 1730 with
late Baroque stucco. This Rococo beauty is now a
residential and business building.
The Goldenes Dachl (golden roof)
was built by Friedrich IV in 1420 as the residence of
Tirolean sovereigns. Emperor Maximillian I added a loggia
over an oriel window and covered it with 2738 fire-gilt
copper tiles, thus the glorious "golden roof"
that has become the symbol of Innsbruck. The work was
completed in 1500 with frescoes on the oriel and in the
loggia as well as coats of arms and reliefs. The Dom zu
St.Jakob (Cathedral of St. James) was converted from
Gothic to Baroque between 1717 and 1724 with ceilings and
stucco work by the Asam brothers. Lucas Cranach the Elder's
famous Modonna and Child graces the main alter. Another
fine work is the tomb of Archduke Maximillian III by
Caspar Gras (1620).
There was a joint Protestant-Catholic
service in session and as we were leaving it was pointed
out to us that many of those arriving were dignitaries
and politicians. This was the beginning of the
celebration of Austrian Independence day, commemorating
the date when the last allied soldiers left Austria. Many
were dressed in their traditional clothing. Four
gentlemen were happy to pose for Linda and introduce us
to Prof. Inf. Helmut Mader, President des Tiroler
Landtages, who was pleased to welcome the visitors from
Canada.
Time for a coffee and pastry stop
and no better place than the local Cafe Sacher. The coffee was very good as was the cheese
strudel - and the shlag! The apple strudel did not
register in the contest.
The Kaiserliche Hofburg, Imperial
Palace, was built by Archduke Siegmund the Rich and
Emperor Maximillian I in late Gothic style (1460) and
converted by Empress Maria Theresia (1754-1773). Rooms of
every description are well maintained and decorated with
original furnishings and art including an impressive
photo of Tirolean soldiers and a display of an armored
man and horse.
You must visit the Hofkirche, court
church. Twenty-eight magnificent larger than life bronze
statues surround a monumental tomb dedicated to Emperor
Maximillian I (who is actually buried outside of Vienna).
The tomb is covered with exquisite marble sculptures
depicting scenes in Maximillian's life. The detail and
dimension of the sculptures is incredible. A gorgeous
black and gold fence surrounds the tomb.
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At Israelitische Kultusgemeinde Innsbruck, which is at Sillgasse 15, we were met by a
very sweet, intelligent woman who took pride in showing
us around. The Synagogue, the spiritual and
administrative center of the 90-member community, is
important for tourists as well. It was built about 1990
at the same location as the original Synagogue, which was
destroyed in 1938. The small chapel, with stone walls and
simple in design, can seat about 100. It is open for
services only on high holidays, Chanukah and Pesach.
Visits can be arranged by calling 43-512-586892.
There is a memorial in the shape of
a menorah to the four men who were killed on
Reichskristallnacht: Richard Graubart, Wilhem Bauer,
Josef Adler and Richard Berger, whose names are inscribed
on the base. The memorial, on Lanhausplatz, was recently
moved to make way for the entrance to a parking garage
and it is tucked between two other unrelated monuments.
Innsbruck: please show some sensitivity; this monument
deserves to be treated with more dignity and suitably
relocated!
Right off of Maria-Theresien-Strasse
opposite the Annasaule monument is the entrance to the
modern Rathaus Galleria, a lovely indoor shopping mall,
which is connected to the city hall. On the 7th floor,
encased in glass with outdoor patio, is the Restaurant Lichtblick. The views are spectacular and when we
arrived in the evening the lights glowing in the city and
on the mountainsides gave an added dimension to the
spectacle. The design is simple, clean and contemporary
with a menu to match. Three and four course menus are
suggested but any dish can be ordered ala carte at the
designated price. The staff is young as is the clientele.
This is the new Innsbruck and it is very popular - make a
reservation. Our only wish is that the young would stop
smoking; it was a struggle for us in this crowded room.
Lindas aperitif was a
strawberry prosecco, at the suggestion of our waitress,
and I opted for a Wachau Riesling. We were served
outrageous house made dense and delicious grain breads
and piquant fresh cheese infused with sun dried tomato
and paprika.
Linda chose a mixed salad to start
followed by cold boiled lobster and lemon dab with
caramelized seafood sauce, served with a leafy spinach
and potato puree. My starter was a brandade of smoked
trout with olive oil and artichoke poussin which came,
oddly, with a deep fried small chicken leg on mashed
potatoes. My main selection was braised and baked milk
fed veal with creamy savoy cabbage, potato noodles,
chestnuts and red cabbage. Everything was top quality and
beautifully prepared and presented. Our waitress was
spirited and helpful.
Life is good in Innsbruck!
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