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AUSTRIA
FALL 2005
Zell Am See
Due east of Innsbruck and south of
Salzburg are Zell am See and Kaprun a dynamic duo of
winter and summer fun. We knew we were approaching our
destination as the beauty of Lake Zell came into view and
the soaring mountains of Kitzstenhorn (3203 meters),
Maiskogel (1675 meters) and Schmittenhohe (2000 meters)
rose around us.
We would spend the first night in
Zell am See and move on to nearby Kaprun in the morning
to appreciate the combination of their unique features.
It was a ten-minute stroll through the lively pedestrian
area to the attractively painted apple green Gruener Baum Hotel, Seegasse 1. Our basic room had nice
furnishings, except for a too-soft foam mattress. The
bathroom was outfitted with a single container of liquid
soap, which was attached near the sink. Luckily we had
some soap of our own for the shower.
Located between the lake and the
Schmittenhohe, Zell am See is picture perfect. We already
had a nice flavor of the sweet shops and cafes we had
passed on the shopping streets so now we found our way
over to Gasthof Steinerwirt, Dreifaltigkeitgasse 2, for lunch. There
are many rooms from very casual to more formal and all
exude traditional alpine comfort. There is an outdoor
garden patio that was quite full but we opted to sit
inside to avoid the insects, a bit unusual this time of
year but so was the sunny, warm weather. We started with
goulash soup, followed by a Greek salad for Linda, while
the gorilla could not pass on the deer stew. The
popularity of this place is understandable considering
the reasonable prices and very good food.
The best thing about the winding
streets is that eventually they all lead to the glorious
lake. There are walking and bike paths around the entire
11-kilometer circumference. We joined others taking
advantage of the sparkling day and when we reached the
area of campgrounds at the north end of lake, we were
able to see the peaks of the glaciers of Kaprun, where
there is year round skiing.
What a place - choose your time of
year and there is always a sport or outdoor activity
awaiting you. While throngs come to swim, row a boat and
enjoy a steady parade of festivities in the summer, fun
on the snowy slopes is really king and when the lake
freezes the skating enthusiasts are ready. We were too
late for swimming and not quite ready to ski the glaciers
but we got our taste of the outdoor life walking along
the lakeshore, exchanging greetings with passersby.
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The "Europa Sportregion
Zell am See-Kaprun" is
dedicated to accommodating and facilitating visitors
needs and requirements. There's even a free ski bus
shuttle service between the two towns to make it easy to
take advantage of the 130 kilometers of pistes of The
Kitzsteinhorn, Maiskogel and Schmittenhohe, plus lots of
other goodies.
Our hotel operates a gasthaus with
a restaurant across the way where we had a very good
dinner. Prosecco for the lady and a glass of Spanish red
for the gentleman. We shared a gemischter salat followed
by roast pork with semolina dumpling and sauerkraut for
Linda and a Zanderfilet (filet of perch) with boiled
potato for me. Palacinka with vanilla ice cream,
chocolate sauce and schlag helped our digestion. ;-)
After a nice breakfast we visited "Augut" the farm of Familie Pichler, where they
raise, slaughter and process pork and beef. Their smoked
pork and sausages are very popular with the locals and
after tasting a sample we could see why. The beef is
packaged in 10 kilo portions and is sold at markets
throughout the region. Man cannot live on meat alone so
they also do schnapps, cheese and preserves. Their
products are all natural with no preservatives.
Those so inclined will be
interested to know that on the way to Kaprun we passed a
36-hole golf course.
Kaprun
We loved our stay at Hotel Steigenberger
Kaprun, located in the
heart of this adorable ski town. The smiling young women
at reception and the bright, contemporary lobby were a
cheerful greeting. We were happy campers. Our large
bedroom with excellent furnishings, comfy mattress and
bedding. Lots of amenities were provided in the large
bathroom and separate WC, including terry bathrobes. Best
of all was a private balcony with a killer view of the
glaciers. Wish we had more time to make use of the
extensive wellness facilities.
Kaprun appears to be very prosperous with
tree-lined streets and very fine boutiques and shops. The
Kaprun River races through town adding another enchanting
element to be enjoyed.
High on a hill named
Margarethenstein is the Kaprun Parish Church built in the
12th century and dedicated to Saint Margareth. Though
small and simple in design, its position on the hill in
front of the tall mountains imparts a distinct aura. Just
behind the church are the two oldest houses in Kaprun
which have been restored and renovated. Both can be
visited but unfortunately not this day.
We stopped at the oldest guest
house in town, Hotel Gasthof
Mitteregger, Schlossstrasse
13, for lunch. The extensive menu offered both
traditional and contemporary dishes. We both had superb
fresh mushroom soup with a soft creamy texture
accentuated with a dab of schlag Followed by thick filets
of perch with flat noodles and creamed spinach.
Everything was freshly prepared by a caring kitchen.
Reasonable prices and excellent service in comfortable
surroundings make this an awfully good value.
In the basement of the Sportkristal
Hotel is the Car Museum,
which was undergoing some renovation, but still available
for a visit. Theres an incredible assortment of
vehicles from tractors to motorcycles, buses, trucks and
cars all packed into a very small space. Hopefully the
construction will create more space to better display the
collection.
Kaprun Castle is thought to have
been constructed around the 12th century because of the
Roman architecture on its east tower. It was acquired by
the "Burgverein" association in 1984 which has
done extensive restoration, which seems to be ongoing. It
is a wonderful venue for festivals, arts and cultural
events. There is a stage and seating in the courtyard for
productions and the Knights Hall and adjoining rooms are
quite splendid for staging events.
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Jausenstation Unteraigen,
Schaufelbergstr. 66, is a guest house above town, right
at the start of the Maiskogel skiing piste. It is here
that some of the finest Schnapps in the country is brewed
in a small stone room called the Schnapsbrennereil. Dad
was away but his son, who works with him, was happy to
show us how the process works. Not so long ago they
installed modern machines which are still fired by wood.
The crushed fruit is boiled and the steam becomes liquid
(alcohol) in three stages. The first stage produces a
poison, strong enough to kill. The second stage is when
the highest quality schnapps is produced, which must be
diluted to be suitable for consumption. Light alcohol, a
rubbing compound for what ails you, is produced in the
third phase. The secret to success is using the best
fresh fruits, maintaining the right temperatures and
timing throughout the process and diluting with the
purist drinking water which happens to be readily
available here. Survival depends upon the brewers
ability to test without drinking too much of the stage
one poison.
Dinner in the hotel restaurant was
less than memorable. The smoked brook trout with rucola
pesto and mustard and parmesan sauce was good as was the
apple/pear juice. But the John Dory on piquant paprika
sauce was over-salted, the saffron rice was boring and
the vegetable mixture was of the budget variety. The only
good thing about the ice cream was that is was cold.
There was a nice salad bar which the waiter failed to
tell us was included with our dinner nor was it indicated
on the menu. The service was slow and clumsy. Considering
the excellence of the breakfast buffet, buffets for all
meals might be the way to go.
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Wachau_Krems_Melk_Durnstein
Salzburg | Kufstein_Kitzbuehel
Rattenberg_Hall | Innsbruck
Zell Am See Kaprun | Spittal
Klagenfurt | Graz | Vienna
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